30 Adelaide to Healesville and home 21 Nov 2012

We are at Seymour, having been recently in Healesville. We drove back from Wilson's Promontory with the GPS and it brought us across Gippsland and over the Yarra Ranges. The countryside of Victoria has been bathed in six months of rain and everything is pristine, ‘picture book’ beautiful. We wanted to photograph it all - so beautiful.

We had a breakdown in Vic (out in the beautiful farmland near Yambuk) due to a leaking Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve, resulting in lost radiator water and overheated engine, and had to be towed into Warrnambool (pop 30,000). We were thinking we did not need this, but unbeknown to us, we did. The Ford repair people fixed the car in two days. 

As we were leaving town we went to one of their partner companies to have the brakes checked on the van, after the tow. As we drove out of their premises there were four mighty bangs as we exited. The mechanics who had all been watching us leave, hopped under the van in double quick time to see what had happened. It had nothing to do with them, but the U bolts that hold the axles under the van had loosened and moved out of place and one of the axles had moved sideways, with one of the right hand wheels against the van wall. Had we continued with our drive to Geelong, (which is what we were doing), there would have been a catastrophic accident. We had no idea of course that the axles had come lose. So it was really good that we broke down in the Warrnambool region, because if we had not had that annoying break-down, we would never have found that our axles on the van were loose and coming adrift. Moral from this story: When things go terribly wrong and annoy you, there might be a very good reason for it, and it may save your life.

Warrnambool is fascinating. An old town that is totally loved by its residents. There are the wildest seas, islands with little penguins which are guarded by dogs, waterways and rivers. Highly recommended for a visit. We also found the most kind and helpful people there. There is also an old seafaring village which is exceptionally well done. It looks like the real thing to me. Most beautiful gardens and roses.

By God's grace, we eventually arrived in Geelong to see family and friends. After that we went to Melbourne to see Darlene’s family and then on to Wilsons Promontory. Unfortunately, it has been devastated by two bushfires and one massive flood. So it has had a lot of destruction and will take a long while to heal. The beautiful native animals seemed to be largely gone. Two hundred and fifty people had to be air-lifted in the sudden flood and had to leave behind their cars, vans, offices. There are marvellous beaches there, such an interesting place. We found one Echidna and a colourful kangaroo, who had a good look at us.

It is a tonic to see the beauty here at the moment. We have certainly never seen Victoria look like this before. So do come and have a look. The roses and rhododendrons are out - the place is a total picture.

Hope to catch up with further family this week, and then we should soon be back at our starting place - Tumbi Umbi. Who said "adventure"?

29 Esperance Great Ocean Road

From Esperance we took a drive along the Great Ocean Road going West. Fortunately, the sun came out and we saw the Bay of Isles, which Esperance is known as. There are over 120 islands in the harbour and bays. You definitely need the sun to be shining to do this magnificent trip. Although it’s a trip of only about 40 km, You have to keep stopping the car to take photos. The colours and the beaches give beautiful surprises. We felt privileged to see such beauty.

 For those of you who have crossed The Great Australian Bight by ship, out there in those thunderous rolling waves which smash over your ship, it is hard to imagine they end on a beautiful colourful shore, gently lapping onto these pristine beaches of the Great South Land.

By the pier, we enjoyed the company of a local sea lion and his mate, who performed beautifully for us.

Another day whilst out photographing birds in the bush we had a close encounter with a snake, who turned out to be a harmless tree snake. We’ve seen a few snakes on this trip.

We admit we had a beautiful few days in Esperance and were glad the sun shone a couple of days so we could get these lovely photographs.

Leaving Esperance we spent six days crossing the Nullarbor and the salt bush desert lands. One day was close to 40 degrees and we did 500 km that day. There is little water or power available during that trip. However, for several days, the waters of the Great Australian Bight are close by, as well as the giant cliffs which comprise the rocky fabric of the coast of Australia. They are very high and the water is way down below. There are a few places where there are lookouts and you can see the cliffs. Other than this you have little sense of the great ocean being there, as the salt-bush plains are up high on the top of the cliffs. The only way to get a good view of the cliffs is to be on a ship at sea looking toward the coast. Surprisingly, the ocean is a beautiful colour of blue, similar to all the coastal waters around the Western Australia.

We are having a rest in Adelaide at the moment and plan to leave shortly for a visit to our dear family in Victoria before we eventually arrive home.

28 Cape Le Grand National Park near Esperance - 19th October 2012

19th October 2012

We drove from Esperance to Cape Le Grand National Park, about 50 km. Cape Le Grand is heath land and native flowering shrubs. There are beautiful large rocks, of many different shapes - one wears a Frenchman’s cap on the top and there is a large gap at the base of the hat where the sun shines through. There is a mystical feel to the National Park.

When you stumble upon the bays they stop your breath because of the pristine beauty. They certainly remind you of the River of Life, pure and clear as crystal, proceeding from the throne of the Father. The sand is pure white and the colour of the water is so clear and such pale blue, that it is hard for the camera to photograph it. Beyond the clear water lies an area of beautiful pale clear turquoise water and beyond that in the deep, the blue is the deepest, bluest water imaginable. 

 There are many beautiful rocks at the edge of some of the bays and other rocks, which look like totems of all kinds of shapes and sizes. It is obvious that this place was also very special to the Aboriginal people. It is an area of great significance. There are islands beyond the bays. There are wonderful walks and climbs.

 A lot of effort has gone into making it comfortable for the visitors who come, yet it still looks untouched. Cape Le Grand sits on the top of places to visit, together with Shark Bay, Coral Bay, Margaret River Region and Cape Leeuwin National Park.

27 Manjimup, Denmark and Albany mid October 2012

We have been in the land of the giant trees, Jarra, Marra and Giant Tingle trees. We did the Tree Top Walk and although we have done many of them before, we have never seen anything like this one. Please imagine the Giant Tingle Trees being 75m tall, with bases on them of 34 metres around the base. That is some walk where the trees tower way over your head, even when you are standing 60 metres high. 

 Later we walked through the forest, underneath the walk. Some trees we could stand in, some you can drive a car through. They are gracious, stately, beautiful, straight and tall. Some of the Giant Tingle trees almost have human faces on them. One is considered the grandmother of all the other trees, about 400 years old. You could make an entire comic strip out of the Giant Tingles. The trees are easy to photograph as they stand up so straight and tall for you.

The tall trees grow over a huge area of the state. Trees, trees and more trees... everywhere you go, with some narrow roads that we shared with logging trucks. Everything was as pretty as a picture wherever we travelled with the farms brimming full of overflowing dams and contented cows and bulls, plus sheep and vineyards, chocolates, fruit trees, fudge factories and lots of arts and craft stores including patchwork. I've been reading a book on the early Teak trade in Burma, many years ago. Its an interesting comparison. Elephants used to do so much of the work in Burma. I learnt Elephants are wonderful, intelligent, loving animals. If a man draws a circle on the ground for his infant daughter to stay within, when she is crawling, an elephant will patiently stand there and each time the infant crosses the circle, the elephant will pick her up and put her back in her prescribed circle. He will do that merrily all day long to please his keeper and care for the infant.

Friends from Manjimup church drove us a hundred kilometres to take us to see a beautiful National Park. It was a lovely day getting to know the folk. They are just about to open up a drug and alcohol clinic where they can work along with addicts to help them to kick their addiction. It will be a live-in setting. 

 We were staying at Fonty’s Pool about 12km from Manjimup where they have a large swimming pool fed by a natural spring, and on two mornings the calm conditions were perfect for a beautiful reflection on the dam; one of these photos is included.

We stayed at Walpole, a tiny town on a bay, stopped off at Denmark to take some photographs of Elephant Rocks and Greens Pool. This was a totally amazing sight. Had been hanging out for that place for a long time.

 We moved on to Albany, a town of about 30,000 people. It is on the Princess Royal Harbour and King George Sounds, pretty as a picture with a port for industry as well. There were heaps of fertilizer waiting on the wharfs for ship transport. (not smelly, though). Into this strange mix stood a newish Civic Theatre on the wharf. Its made from raw timber of course. It looked a bit out of place there. 

Old Whaling Station Albany

The town is both old and new, but the thing to see here are 3 amazing beauty spots called Natural Bridge, The Gap and The Blowhole. We only found these in the early evening. Its another one of those places to be sure to come and see for yourself. It is a part of Australia where it used to be joined to Antarctica when they were one land of Gondwana. You have to imagine it is the domain of giants, to imagine the sizes of the giant stones, gaps and natural bridges. It would really blow your mind to see the massive ocean performing its rites into these enormous gaps, under arches and the sound of the blow holes. You need to watch your step - easy to get swept away. It is also a giant's ocean swell as well.

Hooray we found a sunny day yesterday as we visited the old whaling station. They have done it up so well it is very interesting and entertaining. We meet lovely people everywhere we go. I sat in the cafe for lunch and the magical colours of the sand and the sea, caused me to keep picking up my camera to keep photographing the waves as they rolled over a large flatish stone. It was just so pretty. 

We found paddocks of land covered with pretty pink and yellow flowers on a back road as we headed toward the wind farm that provides electricity for Albany. Those giant arms move slowly as they generate the power. Well, it is quite a place and we will have to move on without having spent enough time here.

Before we left Albany, the weather turned windy and rainy so we drove inland to Wave Rock for a couple of days where it was calm and sometimes sunny (340 ks). We have attached one photo from Wave Rock taken about 6 am.

We are at Esperance, where once again it is raining and misty. Next week we plan to start our trek home across the Nullarbor and emails may be infrequent with limited internet access.

26 Busselton to Pemberton - 1 Oct 2012

Early October 2012

The magnificent coastal scenery with two prominent capes, Cape Naturaliste and Cape Leeuwin, and green fertile country, contrasts with the dry and barren land found in much of the state. There are limestone caves and wineries in the Margaret River area, beautiful wildflowers, and giant eucalypts on the South Coast. The South Western area of the State has a cooler climate with dark skies, dark seas, rain, wind and cold. Several days have been two degrees. 

We were glad for a couple of sunny days where we were able to visit the 1.8 km pier at Busselton. There is a little train which runs to the end of the pier where you can find an underwater observatory, showing off the wide variety of undersea creatures because this is where the Indian and the Southern oceans collide. The Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse is an item of beauty, built in 1895 and the surrounding beaches are many beautiful shades of blue.

On 6^th December 1801 Captain Mathew Flinders Commander of HMS Investigator sighted Cape Leeuwin and commenced the mapping of the Australian coast.

http://www.lighthouse.net.au/lights/wa/Cape%20Leeuwin/Cape%20Leeuwin.htm

We were invited to go and see the size of the waves at the Prevelly Beach near Margaret River. They were enormous as they crashed down on the rocks surrounding much of the coast. Graeme and I stood there laughing at these monstrous waves as each one approached, we were snapping away on our cameras, unable to stop. The monsters also washed right up the mouth of the Margaret River, with the surfers riding the huge waves right into the river mouth. The river itself was a calm and sedate affair with a beautiful shape. A quiet place for a canoe or a swim for the children. All very beautiful. 

 The river was bounded by a large mountain covered with wild flowers and of course also the remains of the big burn Margaret River sustained last year during the summer fires. Mainly the area nearer the beach was burnt plus about 20 houses were lost. Another thing that fascinated me at Prevelly Beach is that the coast stretches around a corner at a 90 degree angle and two oceans flow into that place from two different directions. Seemed unique to me. We were delighted to find a brilliant heated swimming pool at Margaret River and had a most wonderful swim there.

We spent the last two weeks moving around the Margaret River region and visiting so many beautiful places. The countryside looks like something you would more likely see in England than Australia. It is very green, with its annual rainfall being about one metre of rain. All the dams are full and overflowing and flowers fill the meadows with sheep and cattle contentedly enjoying their days. The cool climate vineyards are obviously having marked success. The entire countryside is very lush and beautiful.

Tall Trees Pemberton

We have been finding quite a few orchids from tip offs from friends. In Pemberton we visited the Karri Forest. The trees are about 61 feet high and you are welcome to climb to the top. The weather has been cold wet and dark, however. In the showers we are joined by some leaches. It has been bitterly cold.

Climbing the Gloucester Tree at Pemberton

Cascades at Pemberton

23 - To Bunbury and Busselton - 19-25th Sept 2012

19th-25th September 2012

A beautiful trip down the road from Perth on a fantastic highway, will bring you to Bunbury. We turned immediately on to the highway from our caravan park. The highway has two lanes each way, a divided road, with a very wide gap between, which is occupied by the train line. To accesss the trains you have to walk across a footbridge and on to the train station. Everything seems brand new - road, trains and lines. There were heavy duty electricity poles going everywhere. Multiples of them. Lots happening in the West.

Bunbury

Bunbury

Perth to Bunbury Railway down middle of divided road

We drove through many beautiful towns with waterways everywhere and even though it was a very cold day, the beauty of the areas was obvious. Many of them are towns for retirees who want to fish and take their boats out on the water. When we left the towns behind, we came to the most beautiful countryside imaginable. There were living green paddocks, lightly treed with wild flowers all over them. Later the flowers changed to exotic flowers as well as natives. There were flowering trees everywhere as well. It looked all the world like an English meadow.

Bunbury has grown to such a size it has absorbed the surrounding towns into its populace. It is a large and colourful centre indeed. Dolphins are their special interest for tourists, plus orchids growing wild all around, for everyone to find.

A couple of hours drive further on, brought us to Busselton. The weather has been freezing, windy, menacing grey-black cloud and nearly black ocean, which can look quite frightening and rain of course. So its been a case of "batten down the hatches" for most of the time here. We have bravely hit the road each day and have visited all the Margaret River region (all picturesque) like we haven't seen for many years. There is the greenest grass and the fattest, happiest dairy cows and livestock. 

There are wildflowers and orchids scattered through the properties and bushland. After so many months of desert it is a real treat to see. The beaches are extensive and the surfers 'breaks' are in layers going out in the ocean, and yes, they are all in there having a ball. Other beaches are full of the most picturesque boulders.

On the day we arrived in Busselton a Wildflower and orchid Exhibition opened in the Uniting Church hall, it was amazing with wildflowers collected by nature lovers from a wide area and put on display for two days.  Here are just a few we photographed.

Yesterday was the day for visiting the caves. There are hundreds of them. Some were found in the early 1800's, but it was a privilege to be taken on escorted excurtions through the caves. The limestone caves are standing up just in the bush. They seem to stand about about a couple of hundred feet above the ground and when you are inside them they are also way down below you. 

Augusta Mammoth Cave near Margaret River

Augusta Jewel Cave

Mammoth Cave

To see an ABC DVD on Jewel Cave:

http://www.abc.net.au/local/videos/2011/03/11/3162030.htm. When we stopped to take photos of the tall Jarrah trees, which look so statuesque and magnificent, standing like giants, it was interesting to notice one of these large ridges of caves was the backdrop to the wonderful forest.

24 - Aquarium (AQWA) Perth - 18th September 2012

18th September 2012

Last week we dropped off the van for service very early in the morning. They worked on it all day and did a very thorough service and only finished at closing time, 4 pm. One of the mechanics was having a birthday and decided to give Graeme a present. He put $100 worth of ball bearings into the van for him. He did not want to give Graeme back his old ones, which would not be safe to use. I think it must have been the mechanic's 70th birthday, and he was very good at his job.

We decided to spend the day at the AQWA - Aquarium of WA. It was only about 8.30 am and we had a couple of hours to wait for opening time. Graeme put his head down for a nap and I went exploring. The area near the Aquarium is called Hillarys Boat Harbour. The wind was blowing a fearsome, cold wind and we'd had rain in the night. Firstly there were the most luxurious cruisers and boats you can imagine. Then there was a monstrous marina. It was all very eye catching. 

Blue ring octopus

Lion fish

Corals 

Deadly stone fish

 A group of Aboriginal school boys arrived to go fishing off the pier for an hour or so. (must have been sport for school!) There was the biggest boardwalk of shops imaginable, with luxurious, newish shops, a shop that just sells chocolate for food, etc. Well at that hour on a freezing morning, there were not many customers. Some shopkeepers came to open up. They said most of the business is on weekends.

Beyond and through the boardwalk were more expensive boats moored and beyond this to the shore was a beautiful family beach. It was extensive and went out into the water, with platforms and a wharf for a slippery slide into the beach - way out in the centre of the beach. Behind the beach was a large commercial water playground full of big slides, rock walls to climb and all manner of entertainment for the children. Behind the beach and across the road were expensive houses, and we discovered that a block of land there is $750,000. I think it looked like something out of an American magazine. House and land prices appear to be high here, but business people say it is the two-tiered economy at work. Those who work on the mines, basically, and those who do not. Some miners work on one week and off one week, or multiples of weeks on and weeks off. The place appears to be thriving and full of life.

We did not get many photos as the weather was unpleasant. I met a couple going on a cruiser (liner?) out to Rottnest Island for the day. It was like a small cruise ship with the bow way up out of the water. I couldn't take my eyes off it. $75 per day for one person. A beautiful boat. They were fortunate that the weather improved and it did not rain, even warming up a bit. Ah well, it's something to do next time, as I tried hard to get there, but did not make it.

The aquarium was amazing. I've seen a few in the capital cities, but this was just for the West coast of WA, where the tropical and temperate waters meet. There are reefs everywhere protecting the beaches. Apparently all the sand dunes we saw coming down the coast used to be under the ocean. Also there are great gorges under the oceans here, deeper and bigger than the Grand Canyon in the US. All kinds of amazing sea creatures live in those places. We also met most of the very venomous and dangerous sea creatures, like Blue Ringed Octopus, Stone Fish, Sea Snakes - there are plenty of different kinds. We did not see an Irukandji as far as I know. I'd actually like to go back and do it all again, but Bunbury and Busselton are calling. The length of the WA coast from top to bottom is 13,100 kilometres from North to South and around to the East as Graeme has added.

23 Perth - Kings Park - 14-16th Sept 2012

14th-16th September 2012

It has been good to have you journeying along with us on our trip. We are still enjoying it a great deal, more so now that we are into fairly new country and the distance between interesting spots is not so great as previously.

Today was a day for the beautiful Perth Botanical Gardens and the Wild Flower Exhibition. We arrived very early in the morning and I think we photographed most things in their best light. Being Sunday we got a head start on almost everybody.

Adorable Florables live theatre show at Kings Park

I would say it is similar idea to Floriade, except the plantings are permanent and not changed every year. We had a perfect day. We also drove to see Freemantle and connected with some of Perth's beaches and beauty spots on the Swan River. The River gets very wide indeed in some places, much like Sydney Harbour, I thought. One recreational spot we found had a long, windy sandy spit going all the way out to an island in the middle of the Swan River. Many people were walking there. However, I noticed in passing later, that much of the sand had disappeared under water, so people would either be wading, swimming or getting picked up by boat I expect.

Graeme found the location of his old home in Perth, 1128 Albany Road, Bentley Park. The old home was gone, in its place was a SHELL Service Station (at least that retained his name!) 

 He also visited his old Vic Park School, now Riverside Community College, and Vic Park Church, both now catering for a multicultural population. 

 On Sabbath we visited Carmel College Church where they have a dynamic and tasteful musical group leading the singing.  

22 - Cervantes, The Pinnacles - 12th Sept 2012

12th September 2012

We drove to Cervantes to visit The Pinnacles NP. We found it very interesting. We liked the shots where we could photograph the sea behind them. A little boy called Joshua was running up the sands, like it was a giant children's playground. There is an exquisite Interpretative Centre, which is brand new. Nobody knows for sure how the Pinnacles originated, but there are plenty of guesses.

After photographing these monument-like pillars, we drove to Jurien Bay, to check it out. The Jurian Bay Marine Park was created to conserve the unique assemblage of tropical and temperate species of fish and reef creatures, and the pristine nature of the marine and coastal environment. The warm currents flow southwards, enabling tropical and temperate forms of life to live together in harmony.

Somebody is investing billions of dollars in that tiny town and building expensive houses. It's on the beach, has a beautiful marina with a "safe" town beach and two strong breakwaters to guide the Cray boats safely into harbour. There are many Islands nearby. The residents are very town proud and while only a small town now, it's going to boom. I saw one small older style cottage for rent at $1,400 p.w.

WA has a coastline of 13,500 km from the northern tropics to the temperate south

.

The Stromatalites are living fossils made up of cyano bacteria. The lower level dies and the new generations grows on top. They live at the edge of, or right in, the ocean and lakes. We first came across them near Shark Bay.